Textile Analysis

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natural cellulosic fibers: cotton, flax, ramie, hemp, jute, pina
seed fiber: cotton
bast fiber: flax, ramie, hemp, jute
leaf fiber: pina
the most important apparel fiber: cotton
properties of cellulosic fibers: good absorbency, good conductor of heat, ability to withstand high temp, low resiliency, good conductors of electricity, heavy fibers, harmed by mineral acids, min damage by organic acids, flammable
characteristics of cotton: -comfort
-easy care
-durability
-good abrasion resistance
-poor resiliency
-moderate elastic recovery
fiber size of cotton: staple
3 groups of cotton: -upland cottons
-long-staple cottons
-short-staple cottons
3 types of long-staple cotton: -Egyptian
-Sea Island
-Pima
cotton fiber is made up of...: -cuticle
-primary wall
-secondary wall
-lumen
wax like film covering the primary wall: cuticle
central canal through which nourishment travels during fiber development: lumen
ribbon like twists that characterize cotton: convultions
cotton is ____% cellulose: 94%
a type of cotton that is altered using chemical treatments or finishes: mercerized cotton
mercerized cotton increases _______ and improves the _________ of cotton yarns and fabrics: absorbency; dyeability
cotton appearance: matte, low luster, soft hand
cotton is 30% ______ when wet: stronger
cotton produced following state fiber certification standards on land where organic farming practices have been used for at least 3 years: organic cotton
cotton produced on land where organic farming is practiced, but the 3 year min. has not been met: transition cotton
describes cotton fabric that has been washed with mild natural based soap but has not been bleached or treated with other chemicals: green cotton
come from the stem of the plant, near the outer edge: bast fibers
one of the oldest textile fibers: flax
a fabric made from flax: linen
characteristics of flax: -body
-strength
-low pilling and linting
-pleasant hand
-thick and thin texture
flax can be identified by its ______.: nodes
joints that contribute to flexibility: nodes
short flax fibers: tow
long flax fibers: line (better quality)
flax appearance: high natural luster
other characteristics of flax: poor elasticity, stiff, nodes contribute to flexibility but also weakest part of fiber, good abrasion resistance, high moisture regain, good conductor of electricity, good conductor of heat, resistant to alkalis, organic solvents, and high temps, can be bleached
a white, long, fine fiber with a silk like luster; one of the strongest natural fibers; strength increases when wet: ramie
resembles flax, coarser and stiffer than flax, resistance to rotting; environmentally friendly: hemp
one of the cheapest textile fibers; poor elasticity and elongation; produces sugar, coffee bags, rope, etc.: jute
obtained from the leaves of the pineapple; soft, lustrous, and white: Pina
fibers of animal origin: natural protein fibers
protein fibers: wool, silk
protein of wool: keratin
protein of silk: fibroin
natural protein fibers absorb ______ without feeling _______; they are ________: moisture; wet; hygroscopic
fibers have the ability to be shaped by heat and moisture; good moisture absorption without feeling wet; excellent heat retention; water repellency; feltablity; flame retardent: wool
one of the earliest fiber to be spun into yarns and woven into cloth: wool
one of the most widely used textile fibers before the Industrial Revolution: wool
sheep whose fleece contains no kemp fiber; produce most valuable wool: merino
newly removed wool: raw or grease wool
removing impurities in wool: clean or scoured wool
in wool, grease is purified to ______: lanolin
wool from animals less than 7 months old: lamb's wool
scraps of new woven or felted fabrics that are garnetted back to the fibrous state and reused: recycled wool
recycled wool is not as...: resilient, strong, and durable as new wool
refers to a compact yarn and implies longer fibers and greater uniformity of fiber length after it undergoes a combing process: worsted
describes a softer and more loosely twisted yarn and implies shorter, less uniform in length, and less parallel fibers: woolen
a microscopic honey comb-like core containing air spaces that increase the insulating power of the fiber: medulla
the main part of the fiber (wool): cortex
the wool cuticle contains _____: scales
combines agitation, friction, and pressure with heat and moisture to shrink the fabric: felting
wool appearance: loft, body, matte appearance
characteristics of wool: durable, abrasion resistance, hygroscopic, poor conductor of heat, very resilient, maintains its shape well, excellent elastic recovery, does not soil readily, weaker when wet, burns slowly and self extinguishes, damaged by bleach, environmentally friendly
hair fiber of the Angora goat: Mohair
hair fiber of the Angora goat; fibers are slightly coarse; very sislient: Mohair
hair of the Angora rabbit: Angora
obtained from the two-humped Bactrian camel: camel's hair
produced by a small goat: cashmere
rare wild animals of the South American camel: vicuna and guanaco
universally accepted as a luxury fiber: silk
water-soluble protective gum of silk: sericin
silk-in-the-gum: raw silk
silk where the production is not controlled: wild silk
the most common type of wild silk: Tussah
silk that results when two silkworms spin their cocoons together; yarn is irregular in diameter with a thick and thin appearance: duppioni
describes the weight of silk: momme
only natural filament fiber: silk
silk appearance: can be dyed and printed in brilliant colors; luster is soft; wild silk has a duller luster and less regular surfaces with the presence of sericin
silk treated with metallic salts: weighting
characteristics of silk: moderate abrasion resistance; one of the strongest natural fibers; weaker when wet; good absorbency; poor conductor of heat; moderate resistance to wrinkling; fibers do not shrink; resistant to dilute mineral acids and organic acids
characteristics of wild silk: not as durable, wrinkles more easily
any fiber derived by a process of manufacture from a substance that at any point in the process is not a fiber: manufactured fiber
two types of manufactured fibers: -regenerated
-synthetic
cellulosic manufactured fibers: acetate; rayon; lyocell
noncellulosic and synthetic manufactured fibers: acrylic; aramid; lastol; modacrylic; nylon; olefin; polyester; rubber; spandex; vinyon; vinol
mineral manufactured fibers: glass; metallic
raw materials of manufactured fibers are made into thick solutions called spinning solutions or ______: dope
the addition of colored pigments or dyes to the spinning solution; fiber is colored when it emerges from the spinneret: solution dyeing or mass pigmentation
added to the spinning solution to make fibers look whiter and resist yellowing: whiteners and brighteners
made by incorporating dye-accepting chemicals into the molecular structure: cross-dyeable fibers
a fiber consisting of two polymers that are chemically different, physically different, or both: bicomponent fiber
the first regenerated cellulosic fiber: rayon
high performance rayon: High-wet modulus rayon or HWM rayon
regular rayon produced in the US: viscose rayon
viscose rayon is characterized by its _______; lengthwise lines: striations
characteristics of rayon: high absorbent; soft; comfortable; easy to dye; versatile; unique soft drape; weaker when wet; low elastic recovery; low resiliency; limited washability; harmed by acids; resistant to dilute alkalies; not affected by organic solvents; not recycled
the development of this fiber was due to rayon's negative environmental impact: lyocell
lyocell is ____% cellulose: 100%
properties of lycell: more like those of cotton; soft, flowing drape; good strength, absorbency, and opacity; comfort, smooth; moderate resiliency; sensitive to acids and resistant to alkalies and most organic solvents; not recycled
strongest of the cellulosic fibers: lyocell
first thermoplastic or heat sensitive fiber: acetate
and acetate that contains no hydroxyl groups: triacetate
a problem with acetate is _______ _________: fume fading
a condition in which certain disperse eyes changed color when exposed to atmospheric fumes: fume or pollution fading
acetate is available as ______ or ______: staple; filament
properties of acetate: low cost; good draping;"beauty fiber"; maintains a good white color; weak fiiber; loses some strength when wet; extremely soft; thermal retention is poor; not very resislient and wrinkle; should be dry cleaned; resistant to weak acids and to alkalis; can be bleached; thermoplastic and heat sensitive
______ and ______ are the two oldest manufactured fibers: rayon; acetate
refers to fibers that soften or melt with heat: heat sensitivity
those fibers that scorch or decompose: heat resistant
the melting and flattening of yarns and fibers exposed to excess heat; used in finishing to produce deliberate texture and surface effects: glazing
aligns the molecules in a more parallel arrangement and brings them closer together so they are more crystalline and oriented: drawing
process that uses heat to stabilize yarns or fabrics made of heat sensitive fibers: heat setting
the first synthetic fiber and the first fiber produced in the United States: nylon
properties of nylon: strong, more resistant to abrasion, excellent elasticity, could be heat-set, static build up, poor hand. poor comfort, low resistance to sunlight, light weight; low absorbency; excellent resistance to alkali and chlorine bleaches but is damged by strong acids
nylon is available in _________, _______, _______, and _________: multifilament, monofilament, staple, and tow
regular nylon has a _______ cross section and is perfectly _______: round; uniform
nylon carpets have a cross section of _______with _______ to give good _______ - _______ characteristics: squares; voids; soil-hiding
one of the lightest fibers on the market: nylon
one of the most widely used fibers in the United States: nylon
first polyester fiber: Terylene
properties of polyster: outstanding wet and dry resiliency; excellent dimensional stability; workhorse fiber of the industry; fibers are melt spun; blends well; low absorbency; little comfort; more prone to static problems; high recovery rate; do not shrink and resist wrinkling; resistant to both acids and alkalis; can be bleached; recycled
most widely used manufactured and synthetic fiber: polyester
properties of Olefin: good for furnishings; strong and resistant to abrasion; inexpensive; chemically inert; thermoplastic; static resistant
two processes used to create olefin: -high pressure system
-low pressure system
olefins are produced as ________, ________, _______, ________, and _________ or ________ film yarns with variable tendencies: multifilament; monofilament; staple fiber; tow; slit; fibrillated
two types of olefin: -polyethylene
-polypropylene
more properties of Olefin: medium luster; smooth texture; waxy hand; good abrasion resistance; durable and strong; nonabsorbant; excellent wicking abilities; good heat retention; reistance to acids, alkalis, insects, and microorganisms; low melting point
an elastic olefin, is a generic subclass fiber with superior stretch and recovery properties compared to other olefin fibers: lastol
properties of acrylic: soft; warm; lightweight; resilient; "warm without weight"; attractive with soft hand; imitate woold fabrics; not as durable as nylon, polyester, or olefin; surface is less regular; moderately comfortable; resists wrinkling; cannot be heat set; good resistance to most chemicals
modified acrylics first produced in United States in 1949: modacrylic fibers
the first inherently flame retardant synthetic: modacrylic
modacrylic's cross sectoin: dog bone shaped
properties of modacrylic: furlike fabrics; wigs; less durable than acrylics; elastic recovery is better than acrylics; poor conductors of heat; soft; warm; and resilient; tendency to pill; low absorbency; resistant to acids, weak alkalis, and most organic solvents; less of an impact on environment than acrylic
first manufactured elastic fiber: Lycra (Spandex)
properties of Spandex: superior to rubber in strength and durability; monofilament or multifilament; seldom used alone in fabrics; dyeability; good strength; more resistant to degredation than ruber; resistant to body oils, perspiration, lotions, and cosmetics; uncomfortable; resistant to dilute acids, alkalis, bleaches, and dry-cleaning solvents; thermoplastic; superior aging resistance
an elastic cross-liked copolymer olefin with low but significant crystllinity, composed of at least 95% by weight of ethylene: lastol
an aromatic polyamide fiber: aramid
properties of aramid: exceptional heat and flame resistancel good strength and fire resistance; can be wet or dry spun; dog bone shape cross section; high tenacity and high resistance to stretch and high temps; maintains its shape and form at high temps; resistant to most chemicals; oleophilic and prone to static build up; lightweight and fatigue; damage resistant
an incombustible textile fiber; it does not burn: glass
properties of glass: draperies for public buildings; severe skin irritation; brittle; exhibit poor flex abrasion resistance; break when bent; very heavy; high specific gravity (2.69); nonabsorbent and resistant to sunlight; flameproof
properties of metallic fibers: add a decorative touch; ironing is a problem; help reduce static; heavy; cannot bend without permanent crease
two processes to produce metallic fibers: laminating process
metalizing process
a continuous strand of textile fibers, filaments, or materials in a form suitable for knitting, weaving, or otherwise interwining to form a textile fabric: yarn
made from manufactured fibers, except for the tiny percentage that is filament silk: filament yarns
fibers that are uniform as they come from the spinneret: smooth filament yarns
yarns primarily used for industrial uses; made of a single coarse-filament fiber: monofilament yarns
inexpensive yarns produced from extruded polymer films: tape yarns
a yarn that has been processed to have greater covering power or apparent volume than that of a conventional yarn of equal linear density: bulk yarns
yarns that include any continuous filmanet yarn whose smooth, straight fibers have been displaced from their closely packed, parallel position by the introduction of some form of crimp, curl, loop, or coil: bulk continuous filament yarns (BCF)
processes to create texture to yarns: -false twist
-draw texturing
-stuffer box
-air jet
-knit-deknit
yarns formed from inherently bulky manufactured fiber that are hollow along part or all of their length or from fibers that cannot be closely packed because of their cross sectional shape, fiber alignment, stiffness, resilience, or natural crimp: bulky yarns
thermoplastic filament spun yarns with a high degree of potential elastic stretch, rapid recovery, and a high degree of yarn curl: stretch yarns
filament or spun yarns with notably greater apparent volume than a conventional yarn of similar filament count and linear density: textured yarns
continuous strands of staple fibers held together in some way: spun yarns
loosens, cleans, and blends the fibers: opening
partially aligns the fibers and forms them into a thin web that is brought together as a soft, very weak rope of fibers called carded sliver: carding
increases the parallelism of the fibers and combines several carded or combed slivers into one drawn sliver: drawing
produces a yarn that is superior to a carded yarn in smoothness, fineness, evenness, and strength; aligns fibers in a parallel arrangment: combing
reduces the drawn sliver, increases the parallel alignment of the fibers, and inserts a small amount of twist in the strand: roving
spinning that consists of a series of operations designed to clean and make parallel staple fibers, draw them out into a fine strand, and twist them to keep them together and give them strength: ring spinning
adds a yarn twist: spinning
eliminates the formation of the roving: open-end roving spinning
yarns that are essentially free from stretch: high-bulk yarns
an intimate mixture of fibers of different generic type, composition, length, diameter, or color spun together into one yarn: blend
yarns of different generic types within a fabric: mixture
yarn composed of short-staple fibers that are twisted or otherwise bonded together, resulting in a fuzzy yarn with protruding fiber ends: spun yarn
yarn composed of long fibers grouped together or slightly twisted together: filament yarn
uniformly bulky yarns: textured-bulk filament yarns
the spiral arrangement of the fibers around the yarn's axis: twist
this twist produces lofty spun yarns: napping twist
twist used most commonly for yarns made of staple fibers: average twist
twist that have a harsher hand and more turns per inch: hard or voile twist
yarns that have the highest number of turns per inch inserted in the yarn: crepe yarns
yarns size or fineness: yarn number
describes yarn size using filament fibers: denier
yarn has one strand and is in its simplest form: single yarn
yarn made by a second twisting operation that combines two or more singles: ply yarn
yarn made my a third twisting operation: cord
yarn intended for stitching materials together using machine or hand processes: sewing thread
yarns that deliberately have unlike parts and that are irregular at intervals: fancy yarns
yarns that produce an interesting or novel effect in fabrics: novelty yarns
a pliable, planelike structure that can be made into two or three dimensional products that require some shaping and flexibility: fabric
yarns running in the lengthwise direction: warp
yarns running crosswise: filling
warp yarns are wound onto a _______ ______; the _______ is a frame to hold the heddles; a _______ is a wire with a hole through which a warp yarn is threaded; the yarns form a _______, a space through which the filling is inserted; and then the ________;: warp beam; harness; heddle; shed; shuttles; reed
refers to the geometry or position of warp yarns relative to filling yarns in the fabric: grain
the simplest of the three basic weaves; right angles passing alternately over and under each other; 1/1 weave; no technical face or back: plain weave
warp and filling yarns are the same size and the same distance apart so that they show equally on the surface: balanced plain weave
lightweight, sheer, plain weave: ninon, georgette, chiffon, voile. organdy, organza
lightweight, opaque, plain weave: lawn, batiste, china silk, habutai, challi
low count, sheer, plain: cheesecloth, crinoline, buckram, gauze, bunting
medium weight, plain: print cloth, percale, calico, chintz, polished cotton, muslin, flannelette, outting flannel, gingham, chambray, madras
heavyweight, plain: weaver's cloth, homespun, crash, butcher cloth, burlap, osnaburg, flannel, tweed
there are significantly more yarns in one direction than the other: unbalanced plain weave
can be produced by increasing the reed pressure or by changing yarn size: ribs
occurs when one set of yarns gets pushed to one side and exposes the yarns that are normally covered: slippage
lightweight, ribbed: crepe de chine
medium weight, ribbed: broadcloth, taffeta, shantung
heavyweight, ribbed: poplin, faille, rep, bengaline, ottoman, grosgrain, bedford cord
made with two or more adjacent warps controlled by the same harness, and with two or more fillings placed in teh same shed: basket weave
basket weaves: dimity, oxford cloth, sailcloth,duck, canvas, hopsacking, monk's cloth
each warp or filling yarn floats across two or more filling or warp yarns with a progression of interlacings by one to the right or left, forming a distinct diagonal line: twill weave
characteristics of twill weave: have a technical face and a technical back; technical face has most pronounced wale; fabrics are softer and more pliable and recover better from wrinkles as compared with plain-weave fabrics
twill weaves: serge, twill flannel, sharkskin, herringbone, houndstooth
have a predominance of warp yarns on the face of the fabric; stronger and more resistant to abrasion: warp-faced twills
warp-faced twills: denim, jean, drill, covert, chino, garbadine, cavalry twill
each warp yarn gloats over four filling yarns(4/1) and interlaces with the fifth filling yarn with a progression of interlacings by two to the right or the left: satin weave
characteristics of satin weaves: lustrous; checkerboard designs; no two interlacings are adjacent; have a face and a back that look significantly different; satin is almost always warp-faced
warp satin: satin, crepe back satin
filling satin: sateen
woven figures made by changing the interlacing pattern between the design area and the background: fancy weaves
small figured designs that require fewer than 225 different warp arrangements to complete one repeat of the design: dobby weaves
dobby weaves: bird's eye; huck; waffle cloth; madras
additional warp or filling yarns of different colors or types are woven into the fabric to create a pattern: extra yarn weave
extra yarn weaves: clipped spot, clipped dot designs, swivel dot fabrics
weave produces a fabric with ridges that are held up by floats on the back: pique
pique weaves: wide-wale pique. pinwale pique, bedford cord, bird's-eye pique, bull's eye pique
large figured designs that require more than 25 different arrangements of the warp yarns to complete one repeat design: jacquard weaves
jacquard weaves: damask, brocade, brocatelle, jacquard tapestry, wilton rugs
a weave that presents no wale or other distinct weave effect but gives the cloth the appearance of being sprinkled with small spots or seeds: momie weave
momie weave is also called: granite or crepe weave
momie weaves: sand crepe, granite cloth, moss crepe, bark cloth
a weave in which the warp yarns do not lie parallel to each other; warp yarns work in groups, usually pairs of two; one yarn of each pair is crossed over the other before the filling yarn is inserted: leno weave
leno weaves: marquisette
made from three or more sets of yarns; two sides of fabric usually look different because of the fabrication method; tend to be heavier and have more body than single cloths: double cloth
made with five sets of yarns; two fabrics woven one above the other on the same look with the fifth yarn interlacing with both clothes; can be seperated by pulling out the yarns holding the two layers; refers both to fabrics made with three or more yarn: double cloth
double cloths: melton, kersey
made with four sets of yarns creating two separate layers of fabric that periodically reverse position from top to bottom, thus interlocking the two layers of fabric; creates pockets in the fabric: double weave
doubles weaves: matelasse
made with three sets of yarns; two warp and one filling or two sets of filling and one set of warp; blankets, satin ribbons, silence cloth...: double-faced fabrics
three dimensional structures made by weaving an extra set of warp or filling yarns into the ground yarns to make loops or cut ends on the surface: woven-pile fabrics
made by long filling floats on the surface that are cut after weaving: filling-pile fabrics
filling-pile fabrics: corduroy, velveteen
made with two sets of warp yarns and one set of filling; the extra set of warp yarns from the pile that can be cut or uncut: warp-pile fabrics
warp-pile fabrics: velvet
velvet can also be made using the ______ _______ method: double-cloth
pile with a ____ shape interlaces with more fillings yarns, is more resistance to shedding, is less dense, and more durable: W
a single cloth is woven with wires placed across the width of te loom so that they are positioned above the ground warp and under the pile warp: over-wire method
over-wire method fabrics: frieze
two warp beams are used; the yarns on one beam are held at regular tension and those on the other beam are held at slack tension; slack yarns crinkle or buckle to form a puckered stripe: slack-tension weave

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