Science (sections 1+2)
Terms
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- breaker
- a high water wave that begins to tumble downward or break upon the shore
- wave height
- the vertical distance between a waves crest and its trough
- El Nino
- a periodic change in the locoation of warm and cool surface waters
- Coriolis Effect
- the curving movement of objects from a straight path due to the earth's rotation
- surf
- an area between the breaker zone and the shore
- whitecap
- a white foaming wave with a very steep crest that breaks in the open ocean before the wave gets closer to the shore
- crest
- the highest part of a wave
- wavelength
- the distance between two adjacent wave crests (or troughs)
- wave period
- the time between a passage of two wave crests at a fixed point
- trough
- lowest part of a wave
- deep current
- stream like movements of ocean water far below the surface
- surface current
- stream like movement of water that occurs at or near the surface of the ocean
- currents are classified as
- surface and deep