textiles
Terms
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•Richly patterned fabric with embroidered effect
•Long “floats†of thread are visible on fabric back
•Effect is created on loom - Brocade
- ⬢Uses chemicals that destroy fibers and create a pattern on fabric
- Burn-Out Printing
- ⬢One of the most widely used fibers for home furnishings. Characteristics vary based on variety, growing conditions, and processing. Is versatile, abrasion resistant, light resistant, cleans easily, wrinkles easily (blending with polyester helps), can
- Cotton
- cutting for approval
- CFA
- ⬢Fabrics with small, simple geometric designs (woven into cloth)
- Dobby Weave
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Soluble chemicals that add color to textiles
o Majority of fabrics dyed with synthetic dyes
o Dyeability of fabric is dependent upon fiber
o different chemicals used to color different fibers
o natural fibers accept dyes differently t - Dyeing
- ⬢Yarns that run horizontally
- Filling Yarn
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⬢Fabrics with intricate designs
⬢Examples: Tapestries and brocades - Jacquard Weave
- ⬢act of ¬interloping yarn to create fabric
- Knitting
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⬢Open-work fabric produced by twisting and knotting together threads to form a pattern
⬢Common styles: Battenburg, chantilly, Nottingham - Lace Weave
- •One of the world’s oldest textile fibers. Obtained from stem of flax plant. Relatively expensive. Is strong, abrasion resistant, light resistant, has a nice luster, stiff and does not drape well, wrinkles easily, has poor resiliency, expands, and co
- Linen
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• Double Cloth/Packet Weaves:
o Fabric woven in 2 layers simultaneously on same loom
o layers intersect and switch from face to back to create pattern
o layers cannot be separated w/o damaging fabric
o fabric is “stuffed†produc - Matelasse Weave
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⬢derived from natural materials in nature
⬢example: rayon and acetate
A general term for fibers that are either chemically processed from natural materials or are developed as new chemical compounds. - Natural Man-Made Fibers
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• provide decorative surface effects on fabric
• common used:
o boucle: produces a looped effect
o chenille: produces a “fuzzy†surface
o guimp/gimp: a yarn with a completely covered core - Novelty Yarns
- ⬢First commercially available synthetic fiber. Can be blended with other fibers to enhance its durability. Is inherently lustrous and has a smooth hand, is very strong, has excellent abrasion resistance, is resistant to rotting and mildew, is a definit
- Nylon
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⬢ Dyeing fabric after it has been constructed
⬢ Most common method of dyeing solid colored fabrics
⬢ is very economical
⬢ Fabric dyed in piece, or bolt, form, usually in a solid color, after it has been constructed. - Piece Dyeing
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⬢ Fabric construction incorporates looped yarns on surface of fabric
⬢ so densely packed it becomes a raised surface
⬢ Cut: loops are cut
⬢ Uncut: loops are not cut
⬢ examples: velvet, velveteen, mohair, corduroy, and terryc - Pile Weave
- ⬢ The tendency of a fabric, usually synthetic, to form fuzzy balls in reaction to abrasion. Considered a defect when excessive.
- Pilling
- ⬢ One of the 3 basic weaves. Simplest weave. Face and back of fabric generally the same. Most commonly used weave. Examples: cotton and taffeta. Basket weave (over and under). Filling yarn crosses over a warp yarn and then under the next warp yarn. Eac
- Plain Weave
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⬢two or more single yarns twisted together
⬢each strand of single yarn is referred to as a ply
o most common is two-ply yarn
⬢stronger than single yarns and of higher quality - Ply Yarns
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⬢ Color applied to specific areas of fabric to create patterns and motifs
⬢ Textile Printing
o Application of dyes/pigments to produce fabric designs on fabric
o Printing allows color to be applied to specific areas of the fabric
- Printing
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⬢ Three layers of fabric stitched together
⬢ face fabric, filling/batting and backing fabric sandwiched together
⬢ used for bed coverings, pillow covers, and upholstery
⬢ Outline ...
o stitching follows outline of motifs - Quilting
- ⬢ First manufactured fiber. Processed from wood pulp. Initially, fibers were weak and difficult to clean. Advanced technology has improved performance of rayon. Majority produced is viscose. Lustrous, drapes beautifully, fibers have low resistance to a
- Rayon
- ⬢ One of the 3 basic weaves, which produces a smooth surface by floating warp yarns over multiple picks (warped-face), or floating filling yarns over multiple ends (filling-faced sateen). The points of intersection of warp and filling are as widely spa
- Satin Weave
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⬢ Uses prepared screens to apply color to specific areas
⬢ Dye is pressed through a fine screen to apply design
⬢ Each color in design requires a separate screen
⬢ Traditional screen printing done by hand
⬢ Very labor intens - Screen Printing
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⬢ Narrow edge on fabric that runs parallel to warp
⬢ Keeps fabric from unraveling
⬢ The long, finished edges of a bolt of fabric that run parallel to the warp. The filling yarns are caught by these end yarns, and they usually are a strong - Selvage
- ⬢ The only natural filament fiber. Spun by silkworms that form cocoons. Production is very labor-intensive. Cultivated silk is smooth and lustrous. Silk noil has a fine but very nubby texture. Wild or tussah silk is dull and color is light to dark brow
- Silk
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• Color added to “dope†solution when fiber is in liquid state
• only manufactured fibers can be solution dyed
• Solution dyed fibers have excellent colorfastness
• solution dyeing is expensive
• Synthetic fiber that has - Solution Dyeing
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⬢ process if making manufactured fiber
⬢ The mechanical process of making yarn from staple fiber. - Spinning
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⬢short fibers
⬢all natural fibers (except silk) - Staple Fibers
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⬢ created from synthetic materials
⬢ example: nylon and polyester
Synthetic fibers are fibers derived from petrochemicals. They tend to be non-allergenic, do not promote mildew growth, do not appeal to bugs, have excellent abrasion re - Synthetic Man-Made Fibers
- ⬢ One of the 3 basic weaves in which the filling yarns pass over one or more and under one or more warp yarns in offset progression to create the appearance of diagonal lines. Characterized by prominent diagonal lines. Example: denim. Some variations o
- Twill Weave
- ⬢ Films are non-fibrous, synthetic materials formed into thin layers of fabric. Waterproof and easy to clean. Used for shower curtains. Vinyl is considered a film. Vinyl is a nonwoven water-repellant film used alone or laminated to a backing fabric. It
- Vinyl
- ⬢ Yarns that run lengthwise
- Warp Yarn
- ⬢ Obtained from fleece of sheep or lamb. Specialty wool fibers come from camels and goats. Fiber length, color, and fineness vary considerably, based on animal breed. Wool is wrinkle resistant, has good resiliency, retains its shape, abrasion resistant
- Wool
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⬢ Adds color at yarn stage
⬢ Individual strands within fabric are separately colored
⬢ stripes, plaids, and most jacquard fabrics are yarn dyed
⬢ Fabric that is made from yarn that is dyed before the fabric is constructed. - Yarn Dyeing
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⬢ after yarns are spun, they are twisted together
o twisting increases strength and abrasion resistance
⬢ degree of twist can vary from low to high twist - Yarn Twist
- Basket Weave
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Checkered pattern that resembles the side of a basket
created by using 2 or more warp/weft yarns traveling together - Bow
- a defect in woven fabrics where the weft makes a wavy line across the fabric instead of a straight line
- Cable Knit
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a style of knitting most commonly used in sweaters
simple stitches of knits and purls are twisted around each other to create rope patterns - circular knit
- used to make a seamless tube of fabric
- cloth beam
- a roller, located at the front of the look at which the woven material is wound as its produced
- Courses
- rows of bar-shaped stitches going from side to side in a knit fabric
- Crepe (momie) weave
- a novelty weave with a grainy texture formed using small random floats
- Dobby
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a fabric with small repeating geometric patterns woven into the surface
fabric woven on a dobby loom - double weave
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complicated novelty weave
2 layers of cloth are produced at the same time and locked together - extra-yarn weave
- a novelty woven fabric that has extra warp or weft threads to form a decorative pattern
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filling
(weft) - woven fabrics- the widthwise (horizontal) yarns carried over and under the warp
- Floats
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threads in a woven fabric that go over/under at least 2 other threads
found in fabrics like crepe and satin - full-fashioning
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a technique for making parts of garments by increasing and/or decreasing the number of stitches
gives the garment a more polished look - gauge
- number of stitches per square inch (horizontal direction) on a knit fabric
- grosgrain ribbon
- a ribbon made from a narrow piece of repp weave fabric gives it a distinctive rippled texture and matte appearance
- harnesses
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wooden frames that lift sets of heddles
# of harnesses= complexity of the pattern