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-wave height
-wave length
top of the wave
bottom of the wave
waves are formed by
-storm energy
-tectonic energy
wave motion
-oscillatory in open ocean
-translation in shallow water
wave swells
A series of waves noted by crests of the small lenth
wave base =
1/2 wave lenth
when water depth is "wave base" or less:
wave energy erodes the bottom
As velocity decreases
wave height increases
1 stage of wave movement
open ocean waves with constant wave length
2 stage of wave length
approaching shore wave touch bottom (wave lenth shortens)
3 stge of wave length
surf (breakers form)
Two forms of wave refraction
-The angled approach of wave onto a shore
-The bending around an irregular headland
longshore current
results from swash and backwash and is parallel to shore
wave refraction by angled approach
-causes longshore currents
-rip currents
Wave circulation
-builds beaches
-beach sediment: Longshore drift
-landward from backshore
-wind blown sand
the beach face
summer beach builds up
storm waves
beach is eroded offshore due 2
beach face (foreshore)
-between high and low tides
-steepest part of the beach
-coarsest sediment
back beach (back shore)
-behind berms
beach dunes
-formed behind the backshore
parabolic dunes
parabolic dunes
-require abudant sand beaches
-horns point in up-wind direction
-commonly form around a blow out
movement of water onto a beach
barrier island
is parallel to shore
sea cave
an indentation in a cliff along a coast
drowned stream valley
a sea arch
may form when a sea cave is cut through a headland
a wave in the surf zone
longshore drift
longshore current + beach drift
a sand or gravel bar deposited by longshore drift
Sea cliff
is a steep surface that results from shoreline erosion
beach drift
zigzag movement of sediment along a beach
midbay bar
forms across the middle of a bay
distance between adjacent waves
bar that closes a bay off from the main water body
return of a wave's water from a beach to the lake or ocean
zone where waves feel bottom
an uplifted wave-cut platform
wave cut platform
develops beneath the surf zone
a peninsula of bedrock, usually surrounded by cliffs
a vertical erosional remnant in the water along a coast
shoreline features
-baymouth bar
-barrier islands
-tidal inlets
the spit shows the direction
longshore current builds out the beach...
features caused by wave deposition
wave-built platform-offshore
features caused by wave erosion
wave-cut cliffs-landward of the beach
wave cut platform - offshore
moraine terrace
Features associated with headlands
-"sea" (wave cut)
-sea arch
-sea stack
Erosional and Emergent
West Coast shoreline
Depositional and submergent
East Coast shoreline
coral reef structure shoreline
submergent coastline
chesapeake bay is an example of a
Darwins life cycle of coral reefs
-Barrier Reefs
-Fringing Reefs
Human Intervention
-sea walls
-beach nourishment

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