Shorelines
Terms
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- waves
-
-wave height
-crest
-trough
-wave length - crest
- top of the wave
- trough
- bottom of the wave
- waves are formed by
-
-wind
-storm energy
-tectonic energy - wave motion
-
-oscillatory in open ocean
-translation in shallow water - wave swells
- A series of waves noted by crests of the small lenth
- wave base =
- 1/2 wave lenth
- when water depth is "wave base" or less:
- wave energy erodes the bottom
- As velocity decreases
- wave height increases
- 1 stage of wave movement
- open ocean waves with constant wave length
- 2 stage of wave length
- approaching shore wave touch bottom (wave lenth shortens)
- 3 stge of wave length
- surf (breakers form)
- Two forms of wave refraction
-
-The angled approach of wave onto a shore
-The bending around an irregular headland - longshore current
- results from swash and backwash and is parallel to shore
- wave refraction by angled approach
-
-causes longshore currents
-rip currents - Wave circulation
-
-builds beaches
-beach sediment: Longshore drift - Dune
-
-landward from backshore
-wind blown sand - the beach face
- summer beach builds up
- storm waves
- beach is eroded offshore due 2
- beach face (foreshore)
-
-between high and low tides
-steepest part of the beach
-coarsest sediment - back beach (back shore)
- -behind berms
- beach dunes
-
-formed behind the backshore
parabolic dunes - parabolic dunes
-
-require abudant sand beaches
-horns point in up-wind direction
-commonly form around a blow out - swash
- movement of water onto a beach
- barrier island
- is parallel to shore
- sea cave
- an indentation in a cliff along a coast
- estuary
- drowned stream valley
- a sea arch
- may form when a sea cave is cut through a headland
- breaker
- a wave in the surf zone
- longshore drift
- longshore current + beach drift
- spit
- a sand or gravel bar deposited by longshore drift
- Sea cliff
- is a steep surface that results from shoreline erosion
- beach drift
- zigzag movement of sediment along a beach
- midbay bar
- forms across the middle of a bay
- wavelength
- distance between adjacent waves
- baymouth
- bar that closes a bay off from the main water body
- backwash
- return of a wave's water from a beach to the lake or ocean
- surf
- zone where waves feel bottom
- terrace
- an uplifted wave-cut platform
- wave cut platform
- develops beneath the surf zone
- headland
- a peninsula of bedrock, usually surrounded by cliffs
- stack
- a vertical erosional remnant in the water along a coast
- shoreline features
-
-spits
-baymouth bar
-barrier islands
-tidal inlets
-Tombolo - the spit shows the direction
- longshore current builds out the beach...
- features caused by wave deposition
- wave-built platform-offshore
- features caused by wave erosion
- wave-cut cliffs-landward of the beach
- wave cut platform - offshore
- moraine terrace
- Features associated with headlands
-
-"sea" (wave cut)
-sea arch
-sea stack - Erosional and Emergent
- West Coast shoreline
- Depositional and submergent
- East Coast shoreline
- Organic
- coral reef structure shoreline
- submergent coastline
- chesapeake bay is an example of a
- Darwins life cycle of coral reefs
-
-Barrier Reefs
-Fringing Reefs
-Atolls - Human Intervention
-
-sea walls
-jetties
-groins
-breakwaters
-beach nourishment