Marine Science Chapter 10 Vocabulary
Terms
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- amphidromic points
- points with no net water motion, about which the tides occur in a pinwheel type pattern
- antinodes
- in a standing wave, the points where there is maximum vertical change in the water
- capillary waves
- waves with wavelengths of 1.73cm (.68in) or smaller, with the surface tension the primary restoring force acting on them
- crest
- the highest wave point above the average water level
- deepwater waves
- waves in water that is deeper than half their wavelength
- diffraction (wave)
- the tendency of energy to transfer within a wave upon reaching an obstacle, allowing a new wave pattern to form passing the obstacle or through an opening
- disturbing forces
- force that causes waves
- diurnal tide
- the tidal pattern of a single high and low tide daily
- dynamic theory of tides
- tide theory that accounts for various influences in explaining why there are multiple tidal bulges
- equilibrium theory of tides
- simplistic tide theory that assumes earth is perfectly uniform and that solar/lunar gravity are the only tidal influences
- fetch
- the area over which the wind blows
- flood current
- the incoming tidal flow
- frequency
- the number of waves that pass a fixed point in one second
- fully developed sea
- an area where the waves have reached the maximum possible size for the wind speed, duration and fetch
- gravity waves
- waves with wavelengths longer than 1.73cm (.68in)
- height (wave)
- the vertical measurement from the trough to the crest
- in phase
- wave trains that meet with their crests and troughs timed to coincide
- longitudinal wave
- wave in which the energy moves in the same direction that the energy travels through the compression and decompression of particles
- mix tides
- the tidal pattern of two unequal high and low tides daily
- neap tides
- the weaker tides caused by the sun and moon positioned at right angles relative to earth
- node
- in a standing wave, the point where there is no vertical change in the water
- orbital wave
- waves that only transmit through fluids; waves that occur when energy moves the fluid in a circular motion as it passes
- out of phase
- wave trains that meet with the crests of one coinciding with the troughs of the other
- period
- the time it takes for the same spot on two waves to pass a single point
- plunging breakers
- surf breakers characterized by a curl as the top of the wave pitches through the air before splashing into the bottom
- progressive wave
- waves that allow you to observe their energy moving from one point to another; waves in the ocean are progressive waves and are classified as longitudinal, transverse, and orbital
- refraction
- bending of waves
- restoring force
- force that resists wave formation
- rogue waves
- wave that exceeds the maximum theoretical size in a fully developed sea
- seiche
- a form of standing wave that can be destructive; formed in large bays, harbors, and lakes as a wave that rocks back and forth as a result of a strong wind or local earthquake
- semidiurnal tides
- the tidal pattern of two roughly equal high and low tides daily
- shallow-water waves
- waves in water that is shallower than half their wavelength
- slack current
- the outgoing tidal flow
- slack tide
- the relative lack of water motion between tides
- spilling breakers
- surf breakers characterized by the top of the wave tumbling and sliding down the front of the wave as it decelerates slowly
- spring tides
- the highest tides caused by the alignment of the sun and moon with respect to Earth
- standing wave
- a vertical oscillation in which water rises and falls with alternating trough and crests in a single position
- surging breaker
- surf waves that rise onto an abrupt, near vertical beach rising out of deep water; so named because they surge ashore before breaking
- swell
- a long line of waves over the sea surface
- tidal bore
- wave created by incoming tide moving through narrow area
- transverse wave
- wave in which the energy motion is perpendicular to the travel direction
- trough
- the lowest wave point above the average water level
- wave
- the transmission of energy through matter
- wave trains
- series of sweel traveling together with leading wave dissipating and following waves forming
- wavelength
- the horizontal distance between the identical point on two waves
- amphidromos
- from Greek meaning to run around
- reflection
- wave energy bouncing off a near perpendicular object in the water; may cause a standing wave
- diurnalis
- from Latin meaning daily