TC 371
Terms
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- a flexible planar substance constructed from solutions, fibers, yarns, or fabrics, in any combination
- fabric
- any substance, natural or manufactured, with a high lenght-to-width ratio and with suitable characteristics for being processed into fabric; the smallest component, hairlike in nature, that can be seperated from a fabric
- fiber
- any process used to add color and enhance performance of gray goods (unfinished fabrics)
- finish
- any fabric that has not been finished
- gray goods (grey or greige goods)
- a term originally applied only to woven fabrics, now generally applied to fibers, yarns, fabrics, or products made of fibers, yarns or fabrics
- textile
- an assemblage of fibers that is twisted or laid together so as to form a continuous strand that can be made into a textile fabric
- yarn
- the deisgn and enginerring of a product so that it has the desire serviceability characteristics, appeals to the target market, can be made within an acceptable amount of time for a reasonable cost and can be sold at a profit
- product development
- the measure of a textile products abilitiy to meet consumers needs
- product serviceablity
- the manner in which a textile, textile component, or textile product responds to use or how it responds when exposed to some environmental factor that might adversely affect it.
- performance
- silk
-
stronger than wool, less elastic recovery and reslilence
weak when wet
absorbency good
degrades in acid - staple
- fibers are short, finite length (less than 10")
- filament
- fibers are very long, infinite length
- all natural
- fibers are staple fibers, except for silk
- all manufactured
- fibers produced in filament form but are cut into staple length
- macrostructure
- things you can see by the eye: length, shape/contour, crimp
- microstructure
- things that require you to look under the microscope: cross sectional shape
- submicroscopic structure
- with higher magnification you can see the component parts of the fiber
- fine structure
- structure at the molecular level.
- polymers
- giant molecules that have high molecular weight. made from small molecules called monomers
- Degree of Polymerization
- the number of monomer molecules linked together to form the polymer chain
- amphorous
-
polymer chains arranged in random disorganized way:
yields to extension
holds water - crystalline
- when molecules are closely packed together: high strength **polymer chains are parallel*
- denier
- a measure of the linear density of the fiber: 9000 meter length of fiber
- tex
- 100 meter length of fiber
- drape
- the appearance to the eye of how a fabric hangs
- hand
- describes the feeling in hte hand of the fiber
- modulus
- initiual resistance to tensile force before break. Measure of stiffness.
- tenacity
- a measure of the tensile STRENTGH of the fiber
- elongation
- a measure of the amount a fiber stretchs to the point of rupture
- abrasion resistance
-
ability to withstand abrasive forces.
Ex: upholstery of a cars interior. - elastic recovery
-
a measure of the abilityof the fiber to RECOVER from a stretching deformation
ex: lawnchair, seatbelt - resilience
-
a measure of the ability of the fiber to recover from a compressive force
ex: carpet - absorbancy
- ability of fiber to take up moisture from the body or from the environment
- regain
- the measure of the moisture content of the fiber in standard conditions
- textile labeling (TFPIA) must have on label...
-
fiber content in decending order (not required to put if less than 5%), generic name, manufacturs name, RN #, country/origin
can use generic terms - yarn forward
- tell the country where each part of the garment was made. where fabric was woven/knitted, where it was dyed, where it was cut and sewn, where the yard was produced etc.
- types of cotton
-
american upland
sea island
egyptian- extra long staple
pima- extra long staple domestic
supima - mercerized cotton
- fabrics or yarns treated with strong sodium hydroxide solutions usually under tension
- cotton
-
poor elastic recovery
poor resilience
high regain
flammable
damaged by acids
stronger when wet
subject to mildew
swells in water - bast fiber
- taken from the stem of the plant
- flax
-
stronger than cotton (more crystalline)
more absorbent than cotton
high regain
poor elastic recovery and resilience - lambs wool
- never been used before
- virgin wool
- fibers from the lambs first sheering (more fine)
- wool
-
high elongation
good elastic recovery and reslience
VERY ABSORBANT
has scales (go in 1 direction)
shrinks in heat/moisture - throwing
- the twisting of manufactured fibers
- tape yarns (description)
-
inexpensive yarns produced from extruded polymer films.
coarse and used in carpet backing, rope, cord - monofilament yarns (uses)
- industrial uses such as fish line, sewing thread, nets
- bulk yarn aka bulk-continuous filament yarns
- yarn that is processed to have greater covering power than a convential yarn of equal linear denisty and of the same basic material with normal twist
- bulk yarns vs. smooth filament yarns
-
bulk yarns are:
more absorbant, more permeable to moisture, better bulk, cover, elasticty, static buildup is lower, do not pill or shed - spun yarns
- continuous strand of staple fibers held together in some way
- high twist vs. low twist yarns
-
low twist has more air space and his better insulation
*yarns with more trapped air insulate better* - ring spinning
- yarns are finer, smoother, better quality, more uniform, and have less problems in fabrication
- open-end spinning
- yarns have harsher hand, and are weaker and more sensitvie to abrasion but more uniform and opaque in appearance.
- blend
- intimate mixture of fibers from different generic type, compostion, length, diameter or color spun together in one yarn
- high-bulk yarns
- yarns that are essentially free from stretch
- mixture
- yarns of different generic types within a fabric
- combination
- ply yarns
- twist
- spiral arrangement of fibers around the yarn's axis
- amount of twist
- varies on fiber lenght, yarn size and intended use
- low twist
- smooth-filament yarns
- napping twist
- lofty spun yarns
- average twist
- made of stable fibers
- yarn number
-
yarn size of fineness
expressed in terms of weight per unit length - yarn number is an indirect or fixed weight system because...
- the finer the yarn, the larger the number
- simple yarn
- alike in all its parts and has one strand
- ply yarn
- made by a second twisting operating that combines two or more singles
- cord
- made by a third-twisting operation which twistsply yarns together
- sewing thread
- yarn intended for stiching materials together using machine or hand processes
- fancy yarns
- yarns that deliberatly have unlike parts and that are irregular at intervals
- tweed yarn
- single spun fancy yarn with flecks of color twisted into the yarn to add interest
- slub yarn
- single spun fancy yarn with thick and thin intervals
- spiral/corkscrew yarns
- have two more plies
- parts of a fancy yarn
-
1.core ply
2. effect/fancy ply
3. binder ply - ratine yarns
- effect ply twisted in a spiral arrangement around the ground ply
- knot/spot/nub/knop yarn
- twisting the effect ply many times inthe same place
- spike/snarl yarn
- effect ply forms alternating open loops along both of the yarn
- boucle yarn (loop or curl)
- has closed loops at regular intervals along the yarn
- covered yarn
- yarns that have a central yarn that is compeletly covered by fiber or another yarn
- core-spun yarns
- stretch yarn made by spinning a sheath of staple fibers around a core
- wrap-spun yarns
- have a core of staple fibers wrapped or bound by filament fibers
- fasciated yarns
- grouping of filament fibers is wrapped with staple fibers
- nep
- small knot of entangled fibers
- hairiness
- excessive fiber ends on the yarns surface
- differential friction effect contributes to which property of wool
- felting
- thermoplastic fibers
- acetate, nylon, polyester, olefin
- the cross sectional shape of acetate fibers is crumpled because
- the filament collapses when the solvent evaporates
- fiber replacement for wool
- acrylic
- heat setting...
- relaxes tensions created by drawing and creates cystalline areas
- second largest quantiy produced in apparel textiles
- polyester
- viscous deals with
- the flow of polymers
- polylactic fibers made from
- corn
- fiber can be made from recycled soda pop bottles
- polyester
- imitate rubber
- spandex
- fiber with the lowest density. floats on water
- olefin
- regernated cellulose fiber
- the cellulose fiber was changed chemically and then changed back to cellulose
- oleophillic
- attracted to oil
- fibers with high heat and flame resistance
- aramid